Statutes of 1154–1306 (excerpts) – references to the Order's clothing, armor, and weapons

Note from the compiler: This article presents all references—however minor—regarding the Order's clothing, armor, and weapons found in the statutes from 1154 to 1306.

Statute of Raymond du Puy, 1154
2. ... and let his garments be modest, after the manner of the modesty of our Lord...
8. And the brethren shall not wear brightly colored garments or animal furs. ... Nor are they permitted to sleep naked, but must be dressed in a linen or woolen—or other—shirt (*camisa*).
20. Furthermore, [we decree] that all brothers of every rank who henceforth dedicate themselves to God and the holy Hospital of Jerusalem shall wear a cross upon the chests of their garments and upon their cloaks...

Statute of Alfonso de Portugal, 1206
... A brother must possess three shirts (*camisas*) and three pairs of drawers (*braies*), one tunic (*cotte*) and one outer robe (*soutane* / Fr. *chape*), three bed sheets plus a fourth in his bag, a surcoat (*garnache* / Lat. *garnache et supe*), and two cloaks (*manteaus*)—one fur-lined (Lat. *a penne*) and one without—as well as hose made of linen (Lat. *lin*) and wool.

Statutes, 1239
... These items are the responsibility of the Draper, the Bailiff, and any brothers... ..., and "linen cords of holiness" (*saintures de fil*).
...also, in the Mother House, every brother must wear hose (*chauses*) that lack the front section—the foot (*pies*).

Statute of Hugo Revel, 1262
First, it is ordained that no brother shall purchase clothing for his own personal use... and he who is to receive a *robe of pittance* (a garment of fine material for summer wear) shall not receive another. ...according to the rules. (This rule stipulates that one cannot possess more than one summer habit, although the brothers naturally also received winter clothing made of warmer material).
It is established that the brothers must not wear a *birretta* (a pillbox-style cap—referred to as *birretum bonneti* in the Latin rule and *chapeau de bonet* in the French) made of silk or camlet (a fabric made of camel hair), and that the *birretta* must cover the brother's ears on both sides; those who disobey are to be punished with a seven-day penance.
34. Are the brothers forbidden from possessing an embroidered cap? (cuevrechief rechame') – only in white.
35. No brother shall wear an embroidered turban (toaillon rechame') hanging down to the waist in any color other than white.
36. It is ordained that no brother shall give a robe to any of his attendants unless it is made of fine or used material, with the exception of noble sons belonging to the Order.
1263
1. First, it is ordained that any brother who has a robe made outside the *Parmentarie* (tailoring workshop)—where a tailoring workshop exists at the Hospital House—without the permission of the Clothier (an office within the Order), shall be subjected to a seven-day penance.
2. It is ordained that brothers need not remove the fur (la penne) from their *garnaches* (garnache); a brother may possess a fur-lined *garnache* and a *garnache* without fur (unlike the 1206 statute, which permitted a brother to own only one *garnache*).
8. It is ordained that all garments formerly belonging to a deceased brother that are taken for use (ou' forces auront este' mises) must be sent to the Clothier, as must the linen cloth (bouquerans). And if there are any garments containing gold, they must be taken to the church, as must the silk coverlets (couvetors) intended for our lords, the Sick.
1264
2. It is ordained that all clothing belonging to a deceased brother shall be sent to the Marshal, and all fabrics (bouquerans) to the Clothier. And if there are any garments containing gold, they must be taken to the church, as must the silk coverlets (couvetors) intended for our lords, the Sick. (repeated in two statutes)
1268
5. It is ordained that no brother may purchase a garment made of any fine fabric (dyste de nule rase plus haut) for a price exceeding three bezants per garment (un garniment), and anyone purchasing such a garment must have permission to do so.
1270
15. It is ordained that brothers may wear fabric (of camel hair or other material) that is black, gray, or natural in color; the cost of the fabric for a garment must not exceed six bezants, and all other colors are prohibited.
16. It is ordained that the brothers must dress neatly when passing through the city, and they must wear a mantle that covers their shoulders. Should they fail to do so, the Bailiff (Commander) must report them and punish them with a seven-day penance. If the Bailiff fails to report this, the Master may lodge a complaint against him.
23. ... We also forbid the use of gold on belts...

Bull of Pope Innocent IV, 1248
The Bull addresses the wearing of black monastic robes (cappa clausa) bearing the eight-pointed cross over their armor. (No exact quote provided).

Bull of Pope Alexander IV, 1259
...knights of the said Order must wear a black mantle, distinguishing them from the other brothers of the Order. In war and battle, however, they (the knights) wear a surcoat (suppellis) or other *cote d'armes* of red, bearing a white cross sewn upon it in the manner of your standard.

Nicholas le Lorgne, 1278
3. It is ordained that all brothers of the Order must wear a black mantle with a white cross. (unlike the bull of 1259, which grants this right only to knights).
4. It is decreed that all brothers who have departed from us must be buried in their cloaks.
5. It is decreed that all the Hospital’s brothers-in-arms, when clad in armor, must wear scarlet surcoats (jupell) bearing a white cross (the 1259 bull permits the red surcoat only for knights).
1283
3. It is decreed that brothers may not wear colored silk, with the exception of white and black, and the scarlet used for combat; brothers are forbidden to wear embroidery (brondeures) or ornaments (racameures) made of gold or silver.
23. It is decreed that any brother who receives his everyday habit (roube de lievrason) in winter need not wear any other habit until that winter one is worn out. Likewise, if he receives it in summer, he need not wear another during that summer. Should anyone act otherwise, he shall forfeit his habit. And if a complaint is lodged, he shall be subjected to *Quarantaine* (solitary confinement?). Except for two cloaks, which we desire to be of an earlier style.

John Dee Villiers, 1288
6. It is ordained that the brothers may wear a cloak made of black cloth—or possibly brown—cut in a full circle; the cloak may have a gorgiere (collar or hood?) and must fasten at the front with clasps of the same material; it must be worn fully fastened when away from the sea and must bear a white cross on the front. (In Latin, this reads: Statutum est quod fratres possint portare mantellos pluvie rotundros, pani nigri, apertos ante cisos cum botonibus illius pani; ultra mare autem omnes clausos cum cruce alba ante).
7. Long garments (hargan – a type of long coat) and short cotes (cotes hardies – a short, fitted tunic) are prohibited. However, those who wear the chapes (cloaks/mantles) may continue to do so. (in Latin, it reads: Item cotlehardies vulgariter appellate cum punctis sunt prohibite).

Odo des Pins, 1295
1. First, it is decreed that the brethren may not wear turbans adorned with embroidery (Fr. toaillon rachame', Fr. tovallonum serico operatum), nor wear anything on their heads of a color other than white, nor wear an aureillier (untranslatable term) unless it is covered in white.

William de Villaret, 1300
7. It is decreed that the cross worn by the brethren on their cloaks, cassocks (chappes), or long coats (argans) must measure one palm in size (a palm equals 3, sometimes 4, inches).
21. It is ordained that if a brother wears a short cotte (cotes hardies — also mentioned in 1288, item 7), a complaint must be lodged against him, and the brother shall be subjected to a penance of seven days.
22. It is ordained that brothers may wear garnaches de berrie (berrie — a coarse homespun wool fabric of reddish-brown, gray, or grayish color, used for peasant clothing) that open at the front, with seven fasteners made of the same material.
1302
18. It is ordained that each brother be given nine white bezants per year for his robes and lencieus (chemise/shirt?)—to keep them in good repair (costures — hemming, etc.)—and six white bezants for the laundering of all his robes. (In Latin, this reads: Statutum est quod tradi debeant cuilibet fratri pro tota annea, pro pannis lineis et cousturis, novem bisantii albi, ac pro abluendis omnibus ejus caubis bisantii albi sex).
1304
1. ... Regarding personal clothing (captured on campaign) (robe de vestir), it must all be handed over to the Clothier for distribution among the poor. The clothier must also receive the canvas, all types of cut woolen cloth, bed coverings, blankets... followed by a long list of clothing items
(in French, this reads: les bocarans et tous les dras de laine entram'es, teles entrame'es, sargesde lit, covertors, lenceaus, esparviers, chamelos entrame'es, corichef, touaillons rechame's, borsses, aureilliers rechames de fil ou de soie, - terayes, chapeaus de bonet et d'ombres, coifes, las de manteaus, rases, lanieres;
in Latin: buquerannos omnesque pannos lane non integros, sargias lecti, cortinas subtilesque de sargia, paleatos sacos lecti, coopertoria, linteamina, sparverios, camellatos non integros, cubrecapita tovallones operaatos, bursas et aureliarios filo aut sirico operatos ... targias, capucia boneti et umbre, cueufas, cordonos mantelli, razas, lanerias).

Fulk de Villaret, 1305
First, it is established that the brothers may not wear cloaks, capes (rondel – a hooded cape), cassocks (chappe), or coats (hargant) made of fabric of any color other than black; And if anyone disobeys, he shall be subjected to a penance of seven days and forfeit his clothing.


Statutes of Hugo Revel, 1262
It is ordained that the brethren shall not wear shoes except for Matins and morning prayer, unless they are ill. And if anyone wears shoes against the will of the Order and a complaint is lodged against him, he shall be punished with a penance of seven days.
1270
1. Firstly, regarding shoes of the estiveaus type: they are entirely forbidden. The Master issues the following directive: if anyone violates this rule and a complaint is made against him, he must—as soon as possible—divest himself of them (or confess) and either remove them or put his soliers-type shoes on over them. (The meaning of this clause is not entirely clear; compare with Clause 33 from 1301).

William de Villaret, 1300
18. It is ordained that clerics attached to the House shall not wear the Order's standard footwear (chausement de freres)—with the exception of priests, legal counsel, doctors of medicine or surgeons, chroniclers, and the Master's attendants (valletz; Latin: scriptoribus magistri et thesaurariis, et camerariis scutiferisque magistri)—and that any other footwear worn for valid reasons must be made in the style of the said brothers' footwear, must cover the foot entirely (rives tout entour), and must be entrusted to those others who are permitted to wear the Order's footwear (soliers de freres).
33. It is ordained that the Marshal has the authority to grant a brother permission to wear such footwear, and the Grand Commander holds the same authority regarding serving brothers (freres de mestier) ...


Statutes of Hugo Revel, 1262
And let the same punishment apply to brothers who wear espaliers d'armes (shoulder armor) or heuses (mail chausses) during forbidden times...
1264
1. First, it is ordained that if a brother has permission to go on a raid (chevaucher), he must carry all his armor with him, except for the *chapel de fer* (iron hat/helmet) and steel greaves (jambie'res de fer) (presumably, these pieces of armor may be worn).
1265
9. It is ordained that there shall be no gilding (orpel) or decorated silk on the ornamentation of shields, saddles, or horse armor—only what is strictly necessary; however, any brother possessing a war saddle (selles d'armes) may place a heraldic device (escucel) upon it, to which we do not object.
1270
23. It is ordained that gold and silver have always been forbidden on daggers and swords, and we forbid this once again. Regarding ornamentation, we do not object, provided it is not made of gold or silver. We also forbid gold on belts. Gilded or silvered heraldic emblems were prohibited, and we prohibit them once again.

John de Villiers, 1288
8. ...Arbalests (arbalestres) that are received must be placed in the treasury.
15. It is ordained that brothers may not bear gold or silver on their swords and daggers (cotel), or on other equipment (harnois), except for the purpose of handing it over to the Master or the Bailiff. However, we do not object to ornamentation.
1292
1. First, it is ordained that knight-brothers may not ride in Turkish saddles without covering them in white or black leather, and no brother may ride in Turkish saddles not covered in this manner.
1293
1. First, it is ordained that brothers shall henceforth not possess plates riveted over gold or silk (referring to the coat-of-plates). However, existing items may be retained.

William de Villaret, 1300
37. It is ordained that if any brother of the Convent is serving under the command of a Commander, and said brother dies, his ornaments shall pass to the Commander, his armor to the Marshal, and his money to the treasury. It is also established that the Marshal receives three hundred Saracen bezants from the treasury, while the surrendering Bailiff holds the arms and armor (vaissellements) of the brother-at-arms, keeping the aforementioned items in the Grand Commander's office;...


Hugo Revel, 1262
22. It is established that neither Bailiffs nor anyone else may admit a sister into the Order without the Master's permission. Exceptions to this decree are permitted if the prospective sister can bring great benefit to the Order, or if the Order risks a loss (such as financial loss) should she not be admitted. In such a case, the Prior may receive a sister, but only if she is not young and is of an age that arouses no suspicion.

Statutes of Hugo Revel, 1270
21. Prohibition of dicing.

Nicholas le Lorgne, 1283
9. If a brother is a heretic or has been convicted of sodomy, he forfeits the habit of the Order.

William de Villaret, 1301
17. Those who divulge the secrets of the House are sent into confinement as punishment.
1302
1. A brother or a squire may keep a dog.

Compiler and translator © Enton, 2010